Techniques for sewing stable hems on knitted garments using hem tape twill tape and appropriate stitch options to avoid stretching out.
This evergreen guide explains how to secure knitted hems with hem tape or twill tape while selecting stitches that prevent stretch, distortion, and waviness, ensuring durable, professional finishes for sweaters, scarves, and cuffs.
Knitting fabrics behave differently from woven textiles, so securing their hems requires a thoughtful approach that respects stretch and drift. Start by choosing stabilizing tape specifically designed for knit fabrics, such as hem tape or twill tape, which provides a firm anchor without overly constraining the edge. Prepare the garment by finishing the raw edge with a narrow zigzag or overlock stitch to prevent rolling before applying the stabilizing strip. Align the tape just inside the edge, using gentle pins or clips to keep it flat. For best results, avoid pulling the tape tight; instead, ease it along with the fabric so the edge remains even and the stretch remains distributed along the entire hemline.
When selecting a stitch to anchor the hem, consider options that minimize distortion while offering longevity. A narrow, stretch-friendly backstitch or a small zigzag can work well if set with a low stitch length and minimal tension. Some knitwear enthusiasts prefer a twin needle or coverstitch appearance, but these can risk more edge instability on certain knits. A reinforced straight stitch along the taped edge often provides a clean, durable finish—so long as the foundational edge is well stabilized. Practice on a scrap swatch first, adjusting needle type, stitch density, and presser foot pressure to maintain a smooth edge without creating puckers or tension bulges.
Selecting stabilizers and stitches that respect knit drape is essential.
The first step in achieving a stable knit hem is to identify the garment’s drape and stitch structure. Knits with a tight gauge respond differently from loose, airy fabrics, so tailor the stabilize approach to the specific fabric thickness and elasticity. Use a tape that lies flat and lies parallel to the edge, ensuring it does not roll underneath the seam. If the knit has a tendency to curl, reinforce the edge with a temporary basting thread just inside the seam line before applying the tape. This practice helps prevent shifting during finishing and yields a neater, more professional appearance on the final hem.
After attaching the stabilizing tape, test the hem by gently pressing with an iron on a low setting to set pleats and flatten the edge. Avoid high heat that could stretch the knit or warp the tape. When you’re ready to sew, ensure the needle path aligns with the tape’s center and that the stitch line is just inside the edge to secure the fabric without exposing the raw edge. If the knit shows a tendency to stretch during stitching, consider reducing feed rate and using a walking foot to maintain fabric balance. The goal is a smooth, even hem that maintains the garment’s original silhouette.
Practice, patience, and precise alignment improve long-term results.
Twill tape is a popular choice for knit hems because its diagonal structure resists stretching better than plain tape. Cut tape a touch longer than the edge to allow for precise alignment and trimming. Place the tape on the wrong side of the edge and baste it in place at regular intervals. When you sew, position the needle to land through the tape every so often to anchor both fabric layers securely. For extra restraint, use a small zigzag stitch along the tape seam line, but keep stitch length short enough to prevent bulk at the edge. The combination of tape and careful stitching yields a crisp, stable hem.
Hem tape made from polyester or cotton blends provides another reliable option, especially for lightweight knits. It lays flat and behaves predictably under pressure. Apply the tape with a light touch and avoid stretching it during placement. A chain or lock stitch can also be effective on knit fabrics, as it distributes tension evenly along the edge and reduces curling. When finishing, trim any excess tape close to the seam allowance and press again gently to set the edge. Regular practice with different knits will reveal which tape and stitch pairing best preserves the garment’s stretch and shape.
Curved hems and elastic edges benefit from careful handling and setting.
The choice of needle and thread matters as much as the tape and stitch pattern. Use a ballpoint needle designed for knits to prevent snagging or shredding the fabric’s fibers. Thread with a nylon or polyester blend that has some give; this helps the seam endure daily wear without becoming rigid. Begin with a wider seam allowance to accommodate the added thickness of the tape, then gradually reduce once you’re satisfied with the finish. An occasional back-tack at both ends of the hem improves durability. As always, test on a swatch that mimics the garment’s weight and stretch characteristics to confirm that the chosen setup remains stable after multiple wears and washes.
To manage edge stability on curved hems, such as on cuffs or sleeve hems, ease the fabric slightly as you sew. Allow the tape to guide the curvature without pulling the knit out of shape. Short, even stitches prevent wave formation and ensure the edge lies flat. Consider using a narrow free-motion approach if your machine supports it, which can produce a clean, professional line along the binding. When possible, finish the seam with a light press and a touch of steam to acclimate the fabric to its final resting position. Nod to the fabric’s natural elasticity rather than fighting it, and the hem will maintain its integrity.
Endurance through wear tests confirms a true finish.
If you’re working with bulky knits, you may need to trim the stabilizing tape slightly and apply a slightly wider seam allowance. This prevents excessive crowding at the hem and reduces the risk of tunneling along the tape. Practice patience with each seam to maintain uniformity around corners. Use a twin-needle technique on heavier knits for a broader, more flexible finish, but be mindful that this approach can complicate feed alignment. When in doubt, test a small curved segment first, adjusting tension and foot pressure to avoid slippage. A well-chosen combination of tape and stitch keeps any bulky knit from distorting at the edge.
For delicate lace knits, consider fusing a lightweight stabilizer before applying the tape. This extra support minimizes edge drift and helps the seam hold through repeated wear. Maintain a gentle pace and avoid forcing the tape through the feed dogs. If your machine struggles with the thickness, temporarily reduce thread tension and use a slower stitch. After finishing, run a gentle wash cycle to test how the hem behaves in water. A successful method should resist stretching yet allow the garment to retain its softness and fluidity.
Long-term durability comes from balancing stability with the knit’s natural flexibility. A well-executed hem should feel nearly invisible yet secure. To verify, gently stretch the edge and observe whether the tape remains firmly in place with no ripples or puckers. If you notice any drift, reassess the placement, check the tape’s width, and adjust stitch density. A neat, unobtrusive finish is the mark of professional work. With consistent practice across different yarns and gauges, you’ll develop a dependable instinct for where and how to apply the stabilizer for the finest results.
As with any sewing technique, documentation helps. Keep notes on which tapes, stitches, and settings produced the most stable hems for various knit fabrics. Photograph swatches for reference and organize your preferences by knit weight, fiber content, and needle type. Over time, a concise library of tried-and-true methods will simplify future projects and reduce trial-and-error. When you present a knitted garment with a firm, smooth hem, you demonstrate both craftspersonship and awareness of fabric behavior. The right combination of tape and stitch makes a durable finish that endures washing, wearing, and countless uses.
